Local plants match your regional soil and climate conditions. Native species share a long history with local pollinators like bees and butterflies.

Once established, native plants typically require less water, fertilizer, and pest control than non-native species. They are adapted to local conditions and can be quite low-maintenance. A little hand weeding and supplemental watering during very dry periods may be necessary.

That is completely understandable! Safety comes first, especially with allergies. The great news is you can design a garden that keeps you safe while still helping the environment. Social (or “hive”) insects (like yellowjackets or honeybees) sting to defend a collective home or queen. Over 90% of native bee species, like mason, leafcutter, and mining bees, are solitary critters. They have no hive to protect, so they are incredibly docile and almost never sting unless physically harrassed, stepped on, or squeezed. Many male native bees do not even possess a stinger. You can also plant away from patios, doors, or sidewalks. Or focus on plants that mainly attract birds and butterflies, such as milkweed, purple coneflower, and bee balm (but no flowers are bee-free). Planting native grasses is another excellent option to develop healthy soils, prevent erosion and runoff, and provide shelter for pollinators.

You do not need an all-or-nothing approach. While native plants are generally preferred for their ecological benefits and adaptability, non-native plants can also be suitable for specific conditions or aesthetic preferences. Planting just a few versatile native perennials helps local wildlife. Planting in containers on a patio, deck, or balcony is great too.

Annual flowers need to be replanted every Spring. Perennials return year after year. Both have value to the pollinators. Some recommended annuals include zinnias, cosmos, and sunflowers. Pollinators also love annual herbs when they flower: Dill, Parsley, and Cilantro are common favorites.

Plant for 3 seasons: spring, summer, and fall; aim to have 3 different species in bloom each season; and plant in groups, at least 3 of each variety.

Local nurseries, botanical gardens, native plant societies, plant swaps, and neighbors are good resources for finding native plants. We have a list of local native nurseries at [link]. Always buy plants that nurseries have not treated with harmful insecticides.

It depends on your goals. Sometimes cultivars offer desirable traits, such as drought resistance or unique flower colors, but they may not be as beneficial to pollinators. Mt. Cuba Center has data on many native plant cultivars and their ecological benefits. https://mtcubacenter.org/

Some pollinators are supported by many types of plants (“generalists”); some plants are the only source for specific pollinators (“specialists”). Plant for the specialists since their plants also serve generalists.

Host plants support pollinators throughout their life cycle as homes and as food. Some species need specific plants. Monarch butterflies, for example, require Asclepias species for their survival as they are the only plants on which the caterpillars can feed.

Before a plant is established, it needs frequent watering and extra care. In the first month after planting, water every other day. Then, in the first season, water 2-3 times a week. Once it is established, your maintenance work drops a lot, and even drought-tolerant plants can mostly survive on regular rainfall. Most established natives only need supplemental water during extreme dry periods once rooted.

Watering deeply is better than watering frequently. It promotes healthy root growth that seeks out deeper water sources. Soak the soil in the early morning so leaves dry quickly, which stops fungal diseases. At soil level, use soaker hoses, drip irrigation, or a gentle shower wand to soak the soil about 2 inches deep. Avoid heavy overhead spraying during peak midday heat, and check for ground-nesting bees in unmulched dirt patches before watering.

Perennial flowers: Usually take about one year to become fully established. Trees and shrubs: Often take two or more years because their root systems are much larger. Anchored Roots: If you gently pull on the plant, it will not slide or pop out of the ground because the roots hold onto the earth. New Growth: The stems, leaves, or trunk are strong and showing new signs of healthy life. Weather Tolerance: The plant can survive normal wind, heat, and dry spells without dying from transplant shock.

Leave old stems and dried seed heads standing through the cold months. Winter seed heads feed local birds. Leaves provide shelter and habitat for pollinators. Hollow stems offer critical nesting and overwintering habitat. In spring, when you see signs of new growth, trim back stems so they stand about 12-18 inches tall.

Set out a shallow dish or birdbath with pebbles for perching insects (they can’t swim). Change your garden water every other day to prevent mosquitos. Retain bare ground, logs, and dead leaves and stems so beneficial bugs can nest and overwinter safely.